But preservence is key to success, so i have been out and about as much as possible.... with more visits to Dumbuck and also Glen croe.
Firstly at Dumbuck; I took laura up last sunday in the afternoon after a fun night of drinking and dancing untill the early hours. I had round two with devistation generation, making small progress on a move but it was in the blazing sun and really i was never goind to fare well. I also tried Voddo magic, a cool 8 something(a,a+ or b) depending on who you talk to. I did all the moves and was doing good links, hopefully it will go next visit. It is certainly easier then any other 8b i have ever tired!!!
Cobra, running it out!!!!!
Yesterday Alan , Cobra and me went to Glen croe to do some trad, Alan did the E7 lovebuzz quickly, i almost went for the lead but am not as brave as Alan...again i should do it next time i'm their. Then we went on to try the Fugue, Macleods E9, and it is hard, but not hard in the sense that i was expecting, it really is only one hard move. Alan and me both flashed up to the crux move and after that move the climbing is much more steady. The problem and difficulty come from the position you would be in on lead, facing one really hard move in a no fall zone...falling as Dave said is really not a option. The move however is quite basic (raw pulling on a small undercling..) and i'm praying that with a bit of specific training i might be able to confidently do the move every time without fail. In my opinion thats the only way this route should be climbed unless you are keen on 15 meter ground falls and the prospect of death. But thats just me, i'm rather keen on climbing other things after The Fugue an am not willing to try the route on lead if the move is in doubt.
Alan on lovebuzz E7 6b
2 comments:
There's a naughty chipped crimp on Voodoo that needs filled in. F8a+ otherwise. Old sequence involved getting tiny crimp in groove with left and moving right up and back left.
Good to hear you were on The Fugue. I wanted to make that undercut move beyond doubt too! If it was just a tiny bit more solid it would be a nice E8. I practiced a lot, but never managed to link it lots of times in a row, and fell off that move even when I felt like I wasn't going to. On the lead I pulled so hard on that hold I tore a pulley but didn't even notice until the jug after the crux. Amazing what fear does!
Voodoo is 8a+ with the new hold.
Good luck with all these routes..
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